Steeds Holly Bushes Not Doing Well

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Adamgrey80

New Member
I planted 12 Steeds Holly bushes in October 2018 and am at my wits end as to why they are doing so much worse now than when they were first planted (see attached before and after pictures). I have mounded them up a bit to ensure the root balls are not sitting in our dense, sometimes saturated clay soil, amended the planting mix with peat moss and fresh topsoil for good drainage, and included organic compost for nutrients. I have also been applying Holly Tone at the recommended rates both spring and fall. Last winter was pretty mild and weather conditions seem like they would be conducive to good growth (we live in Zone 6). But still, almost all the plants are very sparse with lots of yellow leaves at their centers. Any ideas on what might be going on with these guys and how to fix it?

Steeds Holly BEFORE.jpg
Steeds Holly AFTER.jpg
 
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RonsGarden

Super Moderator
Staff member
Hi Adam!
Welcome to our forum!
I think there maybe an issue with the mulch. It looks nice, but you should never place mulch right up the the trunk of the trees. You need to pull it back away from the trunk to the drip line of the branches.
Color may also be an issue as black absorbs heat.
How thick is it?
I found using shredded cedar bark works better in that it slowly breaks down and feeds the soil and helps maintain soil acidity.

Here is a site that illustrates the use of mulch: https://www.mortonarb.org/trees-pla...e/horticulture-care/mulching-trees-and-shrubs
 

Adamgrey80

New Member
Thanks for the quick reply! Why does having mulch close to the trunk hurt the tree? Does it harm the tree's ability to "breathe" or something like that? The mulch is roughly 1.5-2" thick.
 

RonsGarden

Super Moderator
Staff member
Hi Adam, yes the mulch creates a perfect condition for mold, fungal development due to lack of air circulation at the soil level...that also includes bacteria as well as viral problems to the trunk and base of a shrub, or tree. Infections can cause the trunk to rot and the surface roots around the plant to die! So moving the mulch away from the base of the tree can solve the problem if the damage isn't severe. Having an expert come to examine the plants, and growing conditions would be able to give you an accurate prognosis.
Hope this helps!
 

bob

Administrator
Staff member
I think Ron's onto the problem. Typically yellow leaves are root issues, either disease or poor drainage causing root rot.

His suggestion to have somebody look at them is a good one, but it may be tricky right now. Often there are master gardeners that will help people for free. But with current restrictions on many things, I don't know how that would work.

I presume you bought them locally? If you bought them from a garden center, and they're still open, you might give them a call and describe the symptoms. Local knowledge is often the best. If you bought them at a big box store, well, then you might find help or you might be outta luck, just depends on the store. :)

Try Ron's suggestion and also try checking the ground to see how moist it is. Too damp is bad and so is too dry. So the first step is figuring out if it's too far in either direction.
 

RonsGarden

Super Moderator
Staff member
Thanks for fixing/converting the pdf files Bob!

Adam
Another question:
Did your use garden fabric before laying the mulch?
 
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Adamgrey80

New Member
Ron - No, I did not use garden fabric before laying the mulch.

Attached are a couple pictures with the current status (still not great, doing slightly worse). I pulled the mulch away from the trunks on 5/16 and applied two cups each of Espoma Soil Acidifier a week ago to try and counteract the potential iron chlorosis. Perhaps it is too early to see signs of recovery, but I do not want to let them go too long and risk them dying.

I did buy them from a local nursery (although they may have been shipped in from elsewhere in the country), I will give them a call to get their advice.

I also reached out to my local extension office to see if they would do a soil test or some other diagnostic test that could determine the cause of the problem.

Steeds Holly 5.28.28 (1).jpgSteeds Holly 5.28.28 (2).jpg
 

RonsGarden

Super Moderator
Staff member
Hi Adam!
Looks like you are doing everything possible to correct the issue. All you can do now is wait and see!
Just a thought, since these are evergreens, older inner leaves tend to be shed once new growth begins each year. This is a normal cycle. Yours look like more leaves are yellowing and falling then are being replaced each year. Just wondering if the soil nutrient levels are too low. If you can buy a soil testing kit it may tell you whether the nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium levels are low.
 


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