Help me interpret my soil analysis

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rdub

New Member
Hello everyone,

I just received the results of my soil test, and need some help. I built a raised bed area last year (6' x12' x 12")and had topsoil delivered, but nothing hardly grew. I sent my soil for testing, and received the following results. The chart showed my calcium and potassium were excessive. My pH is too high, so it looks like I need to acidify my soil, and add superphosphate. Is superphosphate available at places like a Home Depot or Lowes? Is there an organic product?

Can anyone make some other recommendations on what I need to add? I live near Charlotte, NC if that matters. I am growing a variety of vegetables - tomatoes, greens, peppers, etc.

Analysis Results
Soil pH 7.3
Buffer pH 7.85
Phosphorus (P) 38 lbs/acre
Potassium (K) 256 lbs/acre
Calcium (Ca) 7784 lbs/acre
Magnesium (Mg) 400 lbs/acre
Zinc (Zn) 8.4 lbs/acre
Manganese (Mn) 100 lbs/acre
Boron (B) 2.1 lbs/acre
Copper (Cu) 1.2 lbs/acre
Sodium (Na) 24 lbs/acre

The comments that came with the analysis stated below. If I add calcium nitrate will that cause way too much calcium?

Analysis notes:

Before planting, broadcast and work into the soil 9 lbs triple superphosphate (0-46-0) and 3 lbs 34-0-0 or 6 lbs calcium nitrate (15.5-0-0) or equivalent fertilizer per 1,000 square feet (or for each 300 feet of row). Three weeks after appearance of first new leaves, apply four inches from base of the plants, either 10 lbs calcium nitrate (15.5-0-0) or 5 lbs 34-0-0 per 300 feet of row in a continuous band.
 
Last edited:
Welcome!

First the Ph issue. Really it might be a little high but most veggies and plants can tolerate up to 7.5 if you did want to lower it a bit you could add calcium carbonate maybe at about 1/2 the rate rather than the full suggested amount. Excessive Lime is not good in the garden and can be more damaging than lack thereof. So error on the side of caution when using calcium of any kind. I use crushed egg shells and shellfish shells directly in the planting row. I try not to overwhelm myself with trying to raise/lower the entire garden. Each plant has a little different needs. So depending on what you are planting in a particular area you may not need to adjust at all.

In a nut shell , the top soil you purchased , depending on the producer, could be stripped prior to selling. In the south we have sand pit strip mines, the end product is devoid of ANY growing components. It often looks like soil but depending on the source it can be deficient in 1 or more minerals.
My suggestion for an organic solution is to start composting to amend the soil naturally. Mushroom compost from a landscape company is going to be your quickest, cheapest and most efficient way of getting what you need in time to plant. Usually it can be purchased for about $30 a yard. When I moved , I got enough to cover my garden area in about 3" of product. I allowed a couple weeks for it to sit spread out on top before I turned it in. Now I use it as a side dressing, but only when it is fully cooked down.Call some of the larger local landscape and garden centers in your area to find a supplier.
I hope this helps some.:)
 
Thanks Crabbergirl!
From what I am looking at online, it seems your suggestion would increase the pH, not lower it. Would you agree? I'm thinking I need to add some sort of acidifier.
I appreciate your response - I never thought about it being stripped.
I'm wondering if the excess of calcium and potassium can be detrimental, but from what I read the plants take what they need and leave the rest.

I have read about your egg shell starter method, and plan on doing that this year.
 


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